Hampi - Land of ruins

In what turned out to be a last minute travel with "on the verge" of missing the train, I went out for a 2 day trip to Hampi. Hampi is located around 12 km from Hosapete, a city in Ballari district in Karnataka.

People may ask what is there to see the ruins. But, only when you visit you will be able to feel, how a dynasty known for building traditions of South and Central India came together got destroyed and every architectural beauty got decimated.

Hampi got declared as a UNESCO Heritage site in 1986. Located near the Tungabadra river, Hampi was once a wealthy and a grand city. Trading was a major activity which attracted traders from Portugese and Persians.

Known as King of Kings, Vijayanagara empire flourished during Krishna Deva Raya period and this empire served as a barrier from Muslim invasion in to the South. Krishna Deva Raya's successors however tasted defeat. After the defeat in the hands of the coalition of Muslim sultanates, the Vijayanagara empire fell and its capital was conquered, pillaged  and all the Hindu architectural buildings, temples were demolished and the ruins were thrown in to the river(circa 1565).

If one plans for a Hampi trip, you will need at least a bare minimum of 3 days to see around the town. And if you are inclined to the art - photography, you will need at least 5 days. The sun falling on the pillars of mantapas, the structural beauties, monolithic stones, boulders - everything is a beauty to see | visit. If you have seen the new INR 50 rupee note, you could see the Stone chariot.

I took a 2 day off and started off on a train from Chennai - Hubbali (via Hosapet). The train is a bi-weekly express. My co-traveler who is a passionate photographer and I reached Hosapet at the midnight 1.40 am. We got in to an auto and reached Hampi by around 230 am and stayed in Kamalapura, 4 kms from Hampi.

The tour was organized by leading Monument Photographer, Professor, ex-banker, Mr Ramanidharan. All I had to do is just travel. He took care of all the 6 of us(4 of them were already there 2 days earlier). He explained every monument and gave us tips as to how to capture light and in which angle.

Ramani sir must have visited Hampi at least 25 times. He knew the length and breadth of entire Hampi. If any one is interested in Hampi, and in addition you are a photographer, plan a trip.

The beauty of Hampi is that, when you leave the city, it sports a smile and says "Visit me again". 

Some of the photos displayed here. Copyright - Hema.

 Lakshmi Narasimha Temple

                                                         Virupaksha Temple - Boulder view

 Pattabirama Temple - Axial mantapas

 Pattabirama Temple - View for another entrance

 Sunset from Hemakoota Hills 

 Sunset from Hemakoota Hills - Light Hues

 Sunset from Hemakoota Hills

 Virupaksha Temple - Pillar view

Enjoy your trip to Hampi!

AaNdaaL & Chithirai Festival

Chitra Pournami - A blend of both Saivism and Vaishnavism. When AaNdaaL sets out from Srivilliputtur to Srirangam to marry Lord Ranganatha, she stops by at Kallazhagar temple and prays that if her wish was fulfilled, she will offer 100 pots of sweet pongal and 100 pots of butter. This has been described in her Nachiar Tirumozhi.(#9). Starting with describing the beauty of thirumaliruncholai Lord.
சிந்தூர செம்பொடிப்போல் திருமலிருஞ் சோலையெங்கும்
இந்திர கோபங்களே எழுந்தும்பரந் திட்டனவால் மந்தரம் நாட்டியன்று மதுரக்கொழுந் சாறுகொண்ட சுந்தர தோளுடையான் சூழலையினின் றுய்துங்கொலோ
This pasuram is in 9.1. It is interesting to note that in this shrine AaNdaaL is in sitting position as against standing position in most of the temples.AaNDaaL's 9.6 pasuram explains her prayers to Lord Sundarajara PerumaL. Knowing Krishna is fond of butter, she feels if the food is offered, HE might come and she will have a change to meet the Lord.

நாறு நறும்பொழில் மாலிருஞ்சோலை நம்பிக்கு நான் நூறு தடாவில்வெண்ணெய் வாய்நேர்ந்து பரவி வைத்தேன் நூறு தடா நிறைந்த அக்கார வடிசில் சொன்னேன் ஏறு திருவுடையான் இன்று வந்திவை கொள்ளுங்கொலோ

Oh Lord of Thirumaliruncholai which has so fragrant flower gardens, I give my word that I will offer 100 pots of butter and sweet pongal. Will the Lord who holds Lakshmi come and accept my offering?
But, AaNdaaL could not fulfill her promise as she was invited by Ranganathar to join him in Srirangam. This happened around 8th century.
Ramanujar who is also refered to as UDayavar, decided to fulfill this promise himself by offering them to Lord at Thirumaliruncholai a couple of centuries later. When he went to Srivilliputtur after this offering, it is said that AaNdaaL came out of the shrine and called him as "en Anna" (my brother who fulfilled the promise) in view of his love for her.
Of course, the celestial wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar in Madurai as part of the Chithirai Thiruvizha.. People from Madurai are blessed to witness this festival.People welcome Lord Kallazhagar as he enters Madurai. This is called as Edhir-sevai.

It is said that KaLLazhagar wanted to witness his sister(Meenakshi)'s wedding with Sundareswarar and by the time he reached the Vaigai river, he is informed that the wedding is over. Knowing this, he gets upset and stops at Vaigai. Meenakshi and Sundareswarar on hearing this, visit the Vaigai river to pacify him. Saddened and angered that he could not witness the wedding, he enters in to Vaigai river and hands gifts and goes back to Azhagar Kovil in palanquin decorated with flowers without visiting Madurai.

There is another story on Mandooka rishi was cursed by Durvasar and he got his curse relieved by praying in Azhagar Kovil. Sage Durvasa cursed him to be a frog. Impressed by his prayers, Lord of Tirumaliruncholai comes to relieve the curse.

Although this festival was intiially done in Jan (thai month in tamizh), they needed people to pull the chariot. Thai month being a harvest month, the festival did not see much crowd. Hence, it was shifted to Chitirai (Apr- May). (as heard). The water splashing event is also a form to combat the heat during April.

Hope to visit this shrine soon!. For those, who would like to know how akkara-adisal is being made, please visit Akkara-adisal